Puilladobhrain

From Loch Melfort our voyage took us through the tidal gate at Cuan Sound between the islands of Luing and Seil.

Our track through Cuan Sound.

Cuan Sound with Mull in the background.

On entering the Firth of Lorn we raised the sails and had a gentle beat into a light north east wind. The wind soon died and the tide was building against us. The iron sail was started and we headed to Puilladobhrain.

Location of Puilladobhrain anchorage given away by masts behind the rocks.

Just before 16.00 we anchored in Puilladobhrain. 

NJ anchored furthest to the right.

In the evening we went ashore in the dinghy and walked to 'The Bridge Over the Atlantic'. A pint was had in the pub at Clachan Bridge.

Clachan Bridge, 'The Bridge Over the Atlantic'

Looking south from Clachan Bridge

The next day we left taking care to keep on the transit of two white marks on the rocks.

Leaving Puilladobhrain

Loch Melfort

Loch Melfort was high on Sue's wish list of places to visit as it was where she did her undergraduate geology mapping project. We left Ardfern in time to hit slack water Dorus Mor at about midday. On the way we had a good view of the Gulf of Corryvreckan shrouded in mist and fog, looking very foreboding in the distance - another significant tidal gate to be experienced in the future.

Mist shrouded Corryvreckan

Despite it being near slackwater the tide was swirling at  Dorus Mor. The tide turned in our favour as we headed north and our SOG picked up to a maximum of 8.6 knots. 

Turbulent water at Dorus Mor.

We were never troubled by the dense fog banks in the area and the sun came out. 

On passage to Loch Melfort

Mid afternoon we arrived in Fearnach Bay to be surrounded by Sue's mapping area. We picked up a mooring, took the dinghy ashore to pay our dues and were surprised to be given an internet wifi code! Very nice to have as there was no mobile phone signal.

Moored in Fearnach Bay, Loch Melfort

After supper we went ashore again for a walk around the bay towards Kilmelford so that Sue could revisit the fine geology along the shore.

Sue's rocks!

Ardfern

Running short of supplies necessitated a visit to somewhere with a shop. We retraced our route out of Loch Sween and then north east up the Sound of Jura to Ardfern in Loch Craignish. Another day using the engine as there was very little wind but we were able to take some fair tide with us. The marina at Ardfern is tucked behind an island at the north end of the Loch. The village shop is conveniently close to the marina and surprisingly well stocked.

Ardfern Marina

We had a very pleasant walk in the evening towards Kirkton and the anchorage behind Eilean Dubh, somewhere we would like to visit in the future.

Anchorage at Eilean Dubh

Loch Sween and the Fairy Isles - June 12th and 13th

From Crinan we headed south to Loch Sween to investigate one of Sue's Dad's favourite anchorages, The Fairy Isles. We took the last of the fair tide down the Sound of Jura, motoring as there was very little wind. The day was overcast but we had a good view of the Paps of Jura.

The Paps of Jura

Keeping a straight course in the swirling tide around the Maccormaig Isles to dodge various outlying rocks was interesting.

View looking north east up Loch Sween

The Fairy Isles anchorage is behind a small natural rock wall. We had a very peaceful night here.

Approaching the Fairy Isles

At anchor in a flat calm.

We had a good view of Castle Sween when we left the next morning.

Castle Sween

The Crinnan Canal

The Crinnan Canal was quite an experience not to be missed. As we arrived at the Ardrishaig sea lock the heavens opened with the first heavy rain of our time in Scotland.

In the sea lock at Ardrishaig.

With money paid, we were shown the ropes through the first couple of locks by the extremely helpful lock keepers. Sue was on the helm, and I was ashore working the locks.

Rob working the locks

This setup seemed quite odd to Sue, as she was manoeuvring the boat with no crew onboard, and also working the ropes . We soon got in to the swing of things, and by the evening closedown we were at the summit above lock 8 at Cairnbaan.

Moored up for the night at Cairnbaan

After a little rain first thing in the morning, the weather improved considerably, and the midges came out to play ( Arrrrrgh ! ). Once past the first lock on the descent we caught up with another yacht allowing us to share the lock work.

The descent team

As we exited the bottom of the main downward flight of locks a considerable queue of yachts had built up.

Yachts waiting to enter the lock flight up from the Crinnan end.

Nearly back to sea level

Arriving at Crinnan

We spent one more night in the canal before exiting to the sea.

Moored up for the night at Crinnan

Looking out to sea at our new cruising ground

Sue managing the ropes on her own for the last time in the penultimate lock before I joined her 

on board in the sea lock.

Goodbye to Crinnan

East Loch Tarbert

Our passage from Port Bannatyne started with a run down the East Kyle of Bute under a part reefed genoa. As expected we were headed after passing through the Burnt Isles so motored until we anchored for lunch in Black Farland Bay, opposite Tighnabruaich.

 Sailing between the Burnt Islands

Anchored in Black Farland Bay

Our peaceful lunch was interrupted by an unexpected bump followed by a hail, this turned out to be a visit from the Border Force, six black clad men in a fast RIB asking questions about where we had come from and our planned destination. This time it was a very cordial visit, thankfully without our visitors boarding and searching. A few minutes after departure their support vessel ‘Vigilant’ came into view.

Border Force cutter ‘Vigilant’

After lunch sails were raised for a good beat down the West Kyle with one reef in the mainsail and genoa.

Beating down the West Kyle of Bute

At 15:00 we rounded the red can lateral mark at the end of the West Kyle before turning North again towards East Loch Tarbert. The wind dropped briefly allowing us to shake the reefs out. Fifty minutes later it was gusting force 7 and with two reefs in the main and genoa, we were rushing towards Tarbert at up to 8.6 knots. By 16.30 we were moored in the marina.

Entrance to East Loch Tarbert

East Loch Tarbert Marina

We had two nights in Tarbert. A nice meal was had at the Cafe Barge moored on the town quay. In the afternoon we walked over to look at West Loch Tarbert.

The Cafe Barge

West Loch Tarbert

Bute - Rothesay and Port Bannatyne

The sun was shining for our return to the boat on June 5^th. The following day we left Largs after an early lunch in the marina bistro, heading for Rothesay on the Isle of Bute. We motored over as there was very little wind. Our arrival coincided with that of the CalMac ferry, closing the port entrance for 20 minutes or so.

 Rothesay

 CalMac ferry berthing

Once the ferry had left we were able to berth in the inner harbour.

NJ in Rothesay inner harbour.

Whilst at Rothesay we re-provisioned the boat and enjoyed the use of the rather splendid Victorian toilets!!

Inside the Victorian toilets

The next morning we left the harbour to move just up the coast to Port Bannatyne. We were expecting heavy rain in the afternoon so we didn’t want to go far.  This lengthy passage took all of 35 minutes, giving us time for a pleasant walk before the rain set in.

NJ in Port Bannatyne Marina

View of Port Bannatyne from the Marina