Return to Arisaig to dry out : 24th & 25th July

We returned to Dunstaffnage on 22nd July to bright sunshine and settled weather. We left the following day, and after an overnight stop in Tobermory to re-provision the boat we headed out to Arisaig. Our plan was to beach the boat for some maintenance and hull cleaning.

Sailing up the Sound of Mull.

We anchored off the main channel into Arisaig and took the dinghy to sound out a suitable spot to ground the boat, and the best line in, avoiding areas with weed and hidden rocks. The water was beautifully clear so this wasn't a problem.

'NJ' at anchor.

As the sun went down we were treated to a spectacular sunset.

Sunset.

The next day, two and a half hours after high water, we nosed 'NJ' in towards the beach. At 08-55, with 0.8m of water on the depth sounder, we were aground.

Looking out of the cabin, waiting for the water to go.

 The water rapidly receded and we were soon able to walk around the boat to clean off the bottom, and change the bowthruster anode. We also took the opportunity to clean the topsides and do a little polishing. After the work was done, I had the first ( and probably last ) swim of the season!

High and dry.

We refloated at 15-45 and motored into Loch Nan Ceall to anchor for the night. In the morning we moved over to the Arisaig Marine pontoon to take on water, before setting to sea again bound for the Isle of Rum.

Homeward bound via Tobermory and Dunstaffnage.

From Loch Moidart we rounded Ardnamurchan Point on a beautiful sunny day. 

Looking back towards Loch Moidart.

Eigg and Rum still on our ‘to do’ list.

We had one night in Tobermory. It was amusing to see training ship ‘Royalist’ in port, with her complement of sea cadets practising their up mast sail handling skills – rather them than me! 

Training Ship ‘Royalist’.

The next day we headed south east down the Sound of Mull. It was nice to see the sights we had missed in the fog  on the way out. After two nights in Dunstaffnage Marina we took the train home.

Duart Castle.

Lismore Lighthouse.

‘Lady Rock’, just off the end of Lismore Island.

Loch Moidart – 28th June.

Coming away from Loch Scavaig we raised the blue genneker and it carried us most of the way to the Moidart. At the southern entrance the wind increased, and the sun went in.  The channel is littered with rocks requiring careful  navigation.

Sailing South South East towards Moidart.

We anchored at 16-30 to the east of Riska Island. We had a very peaceful night. 

Anchored of Riska Island in Loch Moidart with Castle Tioram in the background.

In the morning we set out for Tobermory via Ardnamurchan Point.

Leaving Loch Moidart.

Loch Scavaig, Isle of Skye and the Black Cuillins.

A visit to Loch Scavaig was top of my wish list of places to visit, as I wanted to return after climbing in the Cuillins with some friends almost exactly 30 years ago. We were unsure if the weather conditions were good enough to allow us to stay overnight, but at the very least we hoped to have a look. As it turned out the wind was lighter than forecast, and we ended up motor sailing!

Approaching the Cuillins.

Around midday we saw a large pod of dolphins, two of which came to play in our bow wave – magic!

One of our dolphin visitors.

Shortly after lunch we anchored in the pool of Loch Na Cuilce, an offshoot of Loch Scavaig just under the ridge of the Black Cuillin. The pilot book had warned us of violent downdraughts which are capable of ‘blowing the anchor out’. It was interesting to experience wind speeds greater at deck level than was being registered at the mast head. The anchor held fine.

The Ridge of the Black Cuillin.

‘NJ’ sharing the anchorage with one other boat.

During the afternoon we watched numerous people being ferried ashore, some from Elgol on the adjacent peninsular , and many others from a cruise ship anchored offshore. We waited until the evening to go ashore and explore when all the crowds were gone. 

Cruise ship anchored offshore.

We walked along the shore of Loch Coruisk which is a fresh water Loch within the arc of the Cuillin ridge, it flows into the sea via a twenty foot high cascade.

The outflow from Loch Coruisk.

Loch Coruisk looking towards the seaward end.

On our way back to the boat, we had a close encounter with some red deer, getting to within twenty feet of one.

How did we get so close!

Mallaig

After an early start, we had drizzle, poor visibility, and porpoises on the way from Arisaig to Mallaig. By late morning we were moored on the pontoon. It was nice to have shore power again after 5 days ‘off piste’.

Pontoons at Mallaig.

 Two nights were had to get to know Mallaig and re-stock the boat. Prawn sandwiches at the Seaman’s Mission, and fish & chips at the Fish Market Cafe were enjoyed. Walks along the sea front in both directions gave us great views out to sea.

Sgeir Dhearg Island at the entrance to Mallaig Harbour.

View of Mallaig with the Isle of Eigg in the background.

Arisaig

24 hours later than planned we set off from Port Mor headed for Arisaig. On the way we had major excitement as a small pod of Minke whales was spotted, much larger than the dolphins and porpoises we had seen previously. A conspicuous white mark on the rocks aids the identification of the entrance to Arisaig, and perches mark the channel between a plethora of rocky islands, some with white sand beaches.

The rocky approach to Arisaig.

Eider ducks on the rocks.

We stayed two nights on a mooring, catching up on chores and provisioning the boat. Whilst in Arisaig we walked along the shore and up the hill to the station, which both afforded great views of the village and Loch nan Ceall. We also had a trip around the Loch in the dinghy to see the local seal population.

Arisaig Village.

Loch nan Ceall, with the entrance channel in the distance.

The Sgurr of Eigg viewed from Arisaig

Seals resting in Loch nan Ceall

‘NJ’ on her mooring with the Mallaig steam engine passing on the hillside behind.

Muck : 21st & 22nd June

A three hour passage took us from Coll to The Isle of Muck, again not much wind so mainly motor sailing.

Muck, with Eigg in the background.

At anchor in Port Mor.

Once we had settled at anchor we took the dinghy ashore to explore the island.

Port Mor almost to ourselves.

On our walk we visited the local tea shop to buy some eggs and bread. Later we encountered some friendly hens and sheep being herded by a shepherdess on her bicycle. The views all around were stunning.

The local Tea Shop.

Friendly Hens.

Rush hour on Muck !

The road to nowhere.

View out towards Rum.

The next day we had plans to leave Port Mor for Arisaig on the mainland, however the boat’s plumbing had other ideas. We had a major blockage, and sadly the day had to be spent resolving the problems – not nice!!!! In the space of 24hours we had experienced the highs and lows of boating – more MUCK than we had bargained for but a beautiful place to visit.